Wine and exquisite
seafood dishes
At
the beginning of 2015 I was honoured to cooperate with Lexus Vietnam, Flix
Event Planning Company and Christine Ha, a renowned Vietnamese American chef,
to introduce some exquisite seafood dishes and pair them with champagne and
wine.
Christine
Ha, a talented chef who grew up eating traditional Asian cuisine always adds
beautiful colours to exquisite ingredients, and combines them with Vietnamese
spices to create her recipes. This is why pairing Christine’s dishes to
suitable wine is always both a challenge and a great inspiration for many
sommeliers.
A
bottle of champagne like Taittinger Brut Reserve or Taittinger Prestige Rosé is
often chosen to welcome diners along with appetizers such as buttered bread and
sturgeon roe. The presence of a champagne bottle on the table always prepares
guests for a memorable event. The popping sound of a champagne cork is like the
delightful laughter of a young woman. The sparkling gold or pink liquid
satisfies every sense from taste and smell to sight. Bubbles emerge from the
liquid like a string of pearls wrapped around the neck of a beautiful woman and
then burst like the fireworks during a festival night.
At
many events I indulge in a bottle of Taittinger Comtes de Champagne “Blanc de
Blancs” along with appetizers like fried shrimp balls, squid cake, Japanese
sushi and sashimi, or buttered bread and sturgeon roe.
Wine and fresh
seafood
In
traditional Vietnamese cuisine dishes with uncooked ingredients are rare.
However, because of the culinary cultural exchange between Vietnam and other
countries ways to enjoy fresh uncooked seafood entered Vietnam and are now
widely accepted. Popular dishes include French-style raw oysters, sardinella
salad, or Japanese sushi and sashimi. Normally, uncooked seafood dishes will
give diners a fresh, cooling sensation and are slightly fishy and salty so
white wine with a light taste, sweet scent of flowers and wet grass and crisp
sour taste are an excellent companion of these dishes. A bottle of “Blanc de
Blancs” made from Muscadet grapes from the Loire River valley, or Chablis
Laroche that wasn’t kept in oak barrels and is rich with kimmeridgien minerals
from Bourgogne (France), or even a bottle of Villa Maria Private Bin Sauvignon
Blanc that has the aroma of peach blossoms, wet grass and passion fruit from
New Zealand, are suitable choices.
So what are the
general principles when pairing wine with fresh seafood?
Experts
say that the best way to pair white wine and seafood are based on several
simple criterions:
White
wine is suitable to pair with seafood, because the sour acidic taste can cancel
out the fishy smell. On the other hand, the acrid taste and iron minerals found
in red wine will enhance the salty and fishy smell and make it more
uncomfortable. However, young and sour white wine must be served at a cool
temperature (7 – 9 degrees Celsius) as at this temperature, the sour taste will
be softer.
Freshwater
fish are smellier, which means they must be served with young white wines,
which are dry and have the pleasant floral aroma of Sauvignon Blanc grapes
(white Bordeaux, Sancerre wine from Loire River Valley in France). Some
examples are Chardonnay not aged in oak barrels from temperate zones, Riesling
Trimbach, Pinot Blanc, Muscat, Sylvaner (from Alsace of France), Sauvignon
Blanc and Riesling from New Zealand, Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon-Colombard from
Australia or Torontes from Argentina.
Clams,
oysters, snails, and mussels should be paired with wine that has the scent of
minerals or ocean salt, such as Chablis not aged in oak barrels, Muscadet
(France) and Xeres (Spain).
Smoked
fish is suitable to pair with Chardonnay grapes aged in oak barrels such as
Bourgogne Chardonnay Louis Jadot or Pinot Gris or Gewurztraminer Alsace
(France).
Fatty
fish are suitable to pair with rich tasting wine such as Chardonnay Louis
Jadot, Condrieu Guigal, or Hermitage White Guigal, which is a mix between
Roussanne and Marsanne grapes.
Fish
with lean meat and elegant taste are suitable to pair with dry grapes, which
are light and have a floral aroma such as Sancerre Henri Bourgeois, Sauvignon
Blanc New Zealand, Muscat d’Alsace or Pinot Blanc d’Alsace, Gewurztraminer from
Austria.
Grilled
shrimp and fish are suitable with Sauvignon Blanc-Semillon aged in oak barrels,
with the scent of vanilla or toasted bread such as Chateaux Carbonnieux
(Graves), Pouilly-Fumé Louis Jadot (Borgogne), or Chardonnay aged in oak
barrels from Chile, US, Australia or Argentina.
Fish
cooked in sauce can be paired with wine that is more concentrated, aged in oak
barrels. The scent of vanilla, oak and butter of the wine will enhance the
fatty taste of the sauce.
Recently,
when I visited the Lucaris crystal factory in Thailand, I was invited to eat
lobster cooked in cream sauce, and sea bass cooked in white wine sauce. Both of
these dishes are paired with Mersault Louis Jadot 2002. The wine had a complex
taste, an aroma of butter and vanilla, and was paired with the fatty taste of
seafood and sauce. This pairing received a lot of praise from diners. I thought
of an Italian saying: “One barrel of wine can work more miracles than a church
full of saints.”
Read more:
>> Golden Spoon Chef's Club -
1st Seminar: The Combination of Cuisine and Wine
>> Chef Sakal Phoeung:
Sharing in Our Career Is Not Like Stealing Grey Matters
By Wanderlust
Tips/Cinet