The
simple banh mi, a baguette stuffed
with anything from grilled pork, cold cuts and cucumber slices, to cilantro,
pickled carrots, liver pâté and a swipe of mayonnaise, is possibly one of the
first things you should try if you want a true taste of Vietnam.
And
apart from the flavor, the best part is the convenience - no need for a bowl or
even a table.
Vietnamese
banh mi, and especially those found
in Saigon, have developed since colonial times to earn a place on the global
food map.
The
world’s largest travel site Fodor’s
Travel last November put Saigon's banh
mi, which it described as “mouthwatering”, in its top 20 street foods from
around the world.
So
let’s follow the Saigonese, to whom a banh
mi is simply the perfect choice at any time of the day, and check out their
favorites.
Huynh Hoa banh mi
This
is a good example of following the crowds.
The
shop at 26 Le Thi Rieng Street in downtown District 1 stands out with long
lines of tourists and locals taking up part of the street. It's open between 3
p.m. and nearly midnight, serving the full dinner take-away.
The
banh mi here is possibly the most
expensive in town at VND37,000 ($1.63), but it still wins loyal bellies for its
layers of meat, cold cuts and generous sprinkle of pork floss. Some also say
they've fallen in love with the special mayonnaise mix.
The
shop is recommended by many top food bloggers as the best in the city, and
possibly in Vietnam. “It was incredibly good, and incredibly meaty and rich,”
said American blogger Mark Wiens who is based in Bangkok.
The
shop is almost always packed and the hungry owls are not very keen on queuing,
so customers are advised to be a pushy and persistent with their orders.
Nguyen Trai banh mi
with grilled pork
On
the alley at 37 Nguyen Trai Street, also in the downtown, and you will find
another crowd surrounding a lady serving banh
mi with her signature twist from a pushcart.
Customers wait around the banh mi pushcart on Nguyen Trai. Photo by VnExpress/Huynh Duyen
The
round pieces of pork, fragrant and a slightly burnt, are taken directly from hot
coal in a small oven. Regular customers say they love how the grilled pork has
remained tasty after so many years, and some are willing to wait for half an
hour.
Many Saigonese have developed a loyal taste for this delicious grilled pork. Photo by VnExpress/Huynh Duyen
The
woman is only open between 5 p.m. and 6 p.m., charging VND18,000 apiece.
Bay Ho banh mi
Another
pushcart on the sidewalk at 23 Huynh Khuong Ninh Street in District 1 has been
standing strong for nearly 80 years. It used to open in the afternoon but now
its morning service only.
A
woman stuffs a Bay Ho banh mi with fresh ingredients. Photo by VnExpress/Khanh
Ly
Most
of the fillings are made following special family recipes, such as the pâté
which is steamed and grilled. The ingredients are prepared just before serving
time so customers can leave with a piping hot baguette. Prices start from
VND12,000.
The four-generation
banh mi
This
pushcart at the start of Huynh Van Banh Street in Phu Nhuan District has been
open from morning till night for around 60 years. Unlike the cold cuts you can
find anywhere, the banh mi here is
stuffed with slices of pork thigh stewed in herbs and seasoning to give a taste
similar to curry, but not as spicy.
A banh mi filled with stewed pork thigh on Huynh Van Banh Street. Photo by VnExpress/Thien Chuong
The
cart has been passed down through four generations of women in the family,
starting with Huong who is now a great-grandmother of more than 80 years old.
Expect to pay VND15,000 a portion.
Banh mi with a
sizzling pan
Hoa
Ma at 53 Cao Thang Street, District 3, somehow preserves the western way of
eating banh mi: slowly at a table.
But the thing that makes it stand out is it puts that etiquette in a typical
Saigon context, with customers sitting on plastic stools along an alley lined
by tattered walls.
Customers enjoy banh mi along an alley at Hoa Ma. Photo by VnExpress/Huan Phan
Dig
into the banh mi along with a
sizzling skillet loaded with fried eggs and an assortment of meats. The eggs
are usually served runny, allowing customers to mop up the near-orange yolks
with their bread.
Banh
mi with a sizzling pan at Hoa Ma. Photo by VnExpress/Phong Vinh
The
shop opened in 1958 and moved to its current location two years later about a
three minute motorbike ride from Ben Thanh Market. The shop is open from 6 a.m.
to 10 a.m. Each serving costs around VND44,000.
By VnExpress