Elephant salad: "Dớn" leaves curl into the shape similar to that ò elephant trunks. - Photo Bạch Liên
This
region draws travellers not only to its scenery and colourful hill tribe
residents, but also to its dishes, the most popular of which is "buffalo
meat hung up in kitchen" (otherwise known as smoked buffalo meat). In
Vietnamese, it is called thịt trâu gác bếp. The closest Western equivalent
would be beef jerky.
Visitors
to the provinces of Sơn La, Lai Châu, Yên Bái, and Lào Cai must try the dish to
round out the unique experience of this land.
Smoked
buffalo meat is a specialty of the Black Thai ethnic group. Lò Văn Thỏa, a
resident of Mai Sơn District in Sơn La, explains that centuries ago, his
ancestors created this dish for rainy days and other times when they were
forced to stay indoors.
“A
long time ago, my ancestors believed that if marinated and then dried, buffalo
meat, beef or pork will be kept longer. If they wanted to bring meat to the
forest for a few days, they were not afraid that the meat would spoil,” he
said.
Smokey: Many prefer to eat "buffalo meat hung up in kitchen" with spicy lemon pepper salt, sipping cups of aromatic corn wine. — Photo dac-san-tay-bac.com
Smoked
buffalo meat is a time-consuming creation, requiring patience. It begins with
taking a piece of buffalo shoulder, rib-eye or back meat and cutting it into
smaller pieces.
It
is then seasoned with salt, chili powder, ginger, and special aromatic forest
seeds named mắc khén that grow in the
northwestern mountains of Việt Nam. After being marinated for about two hours,
the meat slices are skewered on sticks, which are then hung upstairs the
kitchen. Hence the name.
The
buffalo meat is dried slowly by the smoke from the kitchen, which turns it into
a deep brown colour but keeps the insides looking red and fresh. About eight
months or one year later, the meat skewers are taken down and the dish is ready
to eat.
“We
usually make this dish to treat our guests or to use for special occasions,
such as the New Year Festival or a wedding,” Thỏa said.
Different
dishes can be made from this dried buffalo meat. Many prefer to eat it with
spicy lemon pepper salt, sipping cups of aromatic corn wine to wash down the
delicacy. The salty, sweet, spicy tastes combining with the smell of the smoke
are unique.
Creative chef: Lò Văn Thỏa explains about local culture around the kitchen in his stilt house, under hanging skewers of smoked buffalo meat. Photo Bạch Liên
Forest plants
Another
specialty of the northwest is a salad made from a forest plant called in
Vietnamese Rau dớn. Thái people call
it pắc cút.
Dớn, which belongs to the fern family,
often grows by streams or large rocks. Its leaves curl into a shape reminiscent
of an elephant trunk.
The
plant is considered an herbal remedy helpful in curing a cough, cold or
constipation.
The
best time to pick and eat this plant is between the flood season (late summer)
and late spring.
To
make salad, local people steam its young stalks in a wooden steamer for about
20 minutes. Once cooked, they are placed in a large bowl and seasoned with
different spices including lemon, chili, ginger and salt. They are then mixed
with crushed peanuts.
The
dish, though simple, has been a local source of pride for generations.
By VNS