Down
a small pebbled corridor, diners push past two pretty curtains and step into a
minimalist room featuring unadorned wood. As they take their seats at the
counter, a serious-looking chef carefully prepares and presents slices of raw
fish pressed onto balls of lightly seasoned rice.
For
many diners, this is the way sushi should be served – unadorned, nigiri-style,
and in a setting that is elegant yet simple. But ask chef Kenjiro Hashida of
popular restaurant Hashida Sushi what authentic sushi is and his eyes light up
as he leans in to address a question not many know the answer to.
“So
many people ask for an authentic experience,” he says, pointing out that it is
difficult to define “authentic” sushi when the dish has taken several forms and
been presented in varying settings throughout history. “In fact, the idea of
sushi actually came from Thailand and its use of fermented fish sauce.” This is
corroborated by American author Sasha Issenberg in his book The Sushi Economy:
“In its original form, sushi was fish preserved with salted rice, a process
that seems to have originated in South-east Asia.”
TWO OF
A KIND
Post WWII,
limited varieties of river fish meant that chefs had to serve diners two pieces
of the same fish instead of a wider assortment. This led to the two-piece
serving standard still practised in restaurants today.
A
study of food history shows that the concept of sushi has long been in flux,
along with shifting economies and cultural practices. In the mid-19th century,
for instance, sushi was a popular snack sold along the streets of Tokyo – the
chunky pieces were picked up by factory workers on their way home. Wasabi was
dabbed under fish such as gizzard shad – a quick fix to dilute its toxins. And
few today would think that the Japanese used to consider ootoro, or fatty tuna
belly – often the priciest item on sushi menus today – scraps best left for cats.
With
the advent of electric refrigerators and globalisation, sushi has come a long
way. It’s now a popular restaurant item and the star of many a pricey omakase
meal. We look at how it is prepared and presented today.
THE ART OF IKE JIME
Although
sushi has taken different forms through the centuries, its focus has always
been preserving fish in the best way possible. This is apparent in the way
Japanese anglers and chefs go the extra mile by dispatching their catch via ike
jime, a method which paralyses and kills a fish quickly and maintains the
quality of its flesh. The process minimises buildup of lactic acid, which is
produced in a fish’s muscles when it struggles before it dies and can result in
meat with a sour taste and mushy texture. Here’s how to execute this
traditional method.
Step
1: Kill The Fish
Deliver
a sharp blow to the top of the fish’s head with a spiked tool, about two inches
above the eyes. If done right, the fish will stiffen and its mouth will go
slack. The move is executed swiftly so the brain does not have a chance to fire
stress signals to the rest of the body.
Step
2: Slit The Gills
Fish
blood is where fishy odours originate. Insert a blade between the gills and
slice in an upward motion toward the mouth. This cuts a major blood vessel, and
will ensure effective draining of the fish. The fish is then left head-down in
a bucket of sea water.
Step
3: Sever The Spinal Cord
Make
an incision about two inches from the top of the tail (where it meets the
body). Insert a thin (1mm-thick) wire into the neural canal, which runs the
length of the spine. Push the wire towards the head until it can go no further
– this is a vital step that destroys the fish’s nervous system and prevents
rigor mortis, which can lead to mushy meat.
Step
4: Bleed It Out
Remove
the wire and leave the fish in a large cooler of seawater filled with ice to
chill the fish while letting it bleed out. Zip-tie the tail to the side of the
fish, so that it doesn’t flop over and obstruct bleeding from its severed
spine.
MORE THAN JUST TUNA
Fatty tuna and sea urchin might share top spot in high-end sushi restaurants today, but there is a sea of other varieties with plenty to offer too.
Its
inky purple foot gives this shellfish its name (it looks like a bird’s beak),
and is also an indicator of how fresh the clam is. The more vibrant the colour,
the fresher and sweeter this thick cut of meat. Best enjoyed from spring to
summer.
02:
Sayori (Half Beak)
Long
loved by the Japanese as a popular ingredient in Edomae (nigiri-style) sushi,
the appearance of half beak fish in sushi joints signifies the start of spring.
This slender fish has a slightly pungent odour, but yields deeply flavoured
slivers of meat. Traditionally, it is served with sakura denbu (pink fish
floss), which adds a touch of sweetness.
03:
Ikebe Yamame (Golden Roe)
Most
diners are familiar with ikura, but these golden eggs are from smaller Japanese
salmon that do not go out to sea. Instead, this fish is farmed in mountain
areas for its roe. Slightly sweeter in taste than ikura, this golden roe is
only in season for three weeks, from the end of November.
04:
Kawahagi (File Fish)
The
firm flesh of file fish belies its light flavour, and it gets its name from its
tough skin, which was dried and used to finish wooden boats in the past. While
these qualities make it an unpopular choice here, many Japanese enjoy this
sturdy catch. It’s often served topped with its own liver as the latter adds an
intense sweetness.
05:
Akagai (Ark Shell)
A
staple ingredient since Edomae sushi came into existence, the red blood of the
akagai gives it a vivid colour and a more intense sweetness than typical
green-blooded shellfish varieties. Chefs usually slice the clam open slowly, so
that it unfurls in a way that mimics a flower blooming.
06:
Meji Maguro (Baby Tuna)
In
the sushi pyramid, tuna is at the apex: most in demand by diners and a
benchmark of a restaurant’s merit. The flesh of this young fish has some marbling,
but is leaner than its fattier adult counterpart. It is best devoured during
winter, paired with citrus-based toppings like ponzu or yuzu zest to help cut
through its richness.
07:
Ikura (Salmon Roe)
Salmon
roe might appear in most sushi restaurants today, but these glistening red
pearls were only introduced as sushi toppings after WWII. Each egg is usually
carefully individually placed in a soya sauce and rice wine marinade, to seal
the umami liquid within its delicate membrane.
08:
Kamasu (Japanese Barracuda)
Forget
the flesh – the skin is the best part of the Japanese barracuda. The sleek,
shiny skin hides a layer of healthy fats that enhance the clean flavours of
this lean, mildly flavoured fish. The skin is often lightly torched before the
sushi is served. Best enjoyed in autumn and winter.
09:
Karei (Japanese Flounder/Flat Fish)
Of
the many varieties available, marbled flounder is most prized for its fattiness
and subtle briny flavour. In Japan, engawa (the sinew along a flounder’s fin)
is popular among women as it is rich in collagen.
GETTING CREATIVE WITH
SUSHI
Chef Yoshiyuki Kashiwabara, who spent seven years as a personal chef to Japanese ambassadors in San Francisco and Singapore, makes it a point to inject creativity into the sushi he creates as part of his kaiseki menu. The head chef of Kaiseki Yoshiyuki tells us why.
What
is a common misconception about sushi?
Many
people think that only nigiri is considered proper sushi. But actually,
anything with vinegared rice is sushi. One example is bara chirashi – chopped
seafood and eggs are mixed in a bowl with vinegared rice. It’s an entirely
different presentation from moulded sushi, but as long as you use vinegared
rice, it is sushi.
So,
there isn’t an authentic style of sushi then?
No.
In a kaiseki restaurant, sushi is one of many courses, and is usually presented
creatively in a way that highlights the season. For example, in autumn, a chef
might carve ika (squid) into the shape of a chrysanthemum (which blooms in
autumn in Japan).
You
serve tuna with soya sauce foam, instead of the usual sauce in a small dish.
Why?
The
foam has a lighter texture than the sauce, so it doesn’t cover the flavours of
the fish too much. That’s better for the hot weather here.
Writer: MERYL KOH
Photography: VEE CHIN
Art Direction: FAZLIE HASHIM