Hoi An is a small city but it is also known as a “deep” one. “Deep” does not refer to any geographic measurement or area but to its depth of history. Visitors can visit the whole of Hoi An in a single day but that doesn’t mean to say that they will really know Hoi An. The town is small, but it’s mysteries run deep.
Hoi An used to be one of the largest deep sea harbors in Southeast Asia. Then, over decades it began to silt up. The Old Town was almost frozen in time. The ancient architect of the old houses with their moss covered, tiled roofs still remain. The Chinatown area and the Japanese sector traded for several hundred years.
People come to Hoi An for sightseeing, shopping, to have a suit tailored and to enjoy a dish called “Cao Lau”. This is a specific noodle soup from Hoi An. They also come to try the white rose cakes or black sesame sweet soup. However the cuisine would not be complete if we didn’t mention Chicken Rice Hoi An Style. “Tam Ki” rice chicken might be more well-known, but Chicken Rice Hoi An Style is very special.
Chicken Rice Hoi An Style (Ba Buoi shop)
Take a walk along Phan Chu Trinh, Hoang Dieu and Le Loi and you will find many shops selling Chicken Rice Hoi An Style. The best ones are Ba Buoi Shop at 22 Phan Chu Trinh and Ba Huong Shop at 48 Le Loi. Among tourists, the Mermaid Restaurant at 2 Tran Phu is a well-known place in which to enjoy this dish, also Mrs Ly’s Shop at 22 Nguyen Hue, Mrs Thuan’s Shop at 14/1 Nhi Trung and Canh Buom Trang Shop at 33 Tran Cao Van St.
People said the Chicken Rice Hoi An Style was brought by the Chinese a few hundred years before. It is said that Hoi An people modified the way Singaporean people cooked Hai Nam rice chicken, in order to create their own dish. Alternatively, it could have originated from Tam Ki rice chicken, though it has differences in the preparation of the chicken before cooking.
Tam Ki Rice chicken
Whether it comes from Hai Nam or Tam Ky Rice chicken it still has its own unique taste. Whenever you travel to Hoi An be sure to try not just “Cao Lau” or Black sesame sweet soup, but also Chicken Rice Hoi An Style.
If you want to enjoy a delicious dish of Chicken Rice Hoi An Style you must first choose good quality rice and chicken. Free range chicken is best and the bird should not be too old. It should weigh around 1 to 2 kg. After cleaning it, boil then bone it mixing the meat with onion, laksa leaves, lemon juice and some chili spices. These spices combine together to provide a good balance of sourness, spice, salty and sweetness, this is then served with a bowl of the chicken broth.
Ingredients used to make Chicken Rice Hoi An Style need to be selected carefully
Rice has to be good quality, soft and cooked in the chicken broth. A little bit of turmeric should be mixed in the broth to color the rice. A bunch of Pandanus leaves is added to create a good aroma. Use the wood stove for cooking and the rice still will take on have a delightful aroma. The rice is yellow in color, and dry and very soft, and must be served with Trieu Phat chili sauce, in order for it to be considered authentic Chicken Rice Hoi An Style .
I had a chance to visit Hoi An last summer and after walking around the town a few minutes it my friend took me to Co Thuan shop at 17/4 Nhi Trung St for dinner. The shop is located in a small alley. Before we even entered the shop my friend said, “They have run out of food, we will have to come back tomorrow, earlier”. I was surprised and asked, “How do you know? We haven’t got there yet” My friend pointed to a small neon sign hanging in the alleyway leading to the shop and said, “If the light is on, it means they are still serving, If not, it means they have run out. This is one of the most popular shops in Hoi An and many customers come here. Westerners and Vietnamese people love it, especially local people.
Chicken Rice Hoi An Style in Co Thuan shop
If you don’t try Chicken Rice Hoi An Style at least try “Cao Lau” and a coffee in the Old Quarter. Sitting on a quiet night, there is nothing that needs to be said to enjoy Hoi An. The small town suddenly becomes more romantic as the evening draws in.
In the evenings, after 8 o’clock everyone living in the Old Quarter turns off all neon lights and lights up their traditional lanterns. These are spherical or hexagonal in shape like the Chinese versions and are hung in front of doorways. Occasionally white oval or tubular shapes can be seen; these are Japanese.
Hoi An today is still the shimmering city, as of three hundred years ago. Eventually, my friend asked me” There are many good restaurant selling Chicken Rice Hoi An Style here, why you don’t eat more in other shops to compare?” I smiled and said “I am happy to eat what I know to be the best, I have no need to compare others”
The local people in Hoi An especially like Chicken Rice Hoi An Style from the Co Thuan Shop
At 5 PM the next day, the little neon sign in Nhi Trung street was illuminated. The Co Thuan shop is quite small, just large enough for three tables, two rounds and one long, rectangular one. There were about 20 or 30 diners, sometimes it gets so busy that they have to use tables and chairs from the house Mrs Thuan is very friendly and constantly apologizes to customers for her shop’s location in the Old Quarter. Strict rules forbid extending these properties.
Vegetables salad with sweet and sour sauce served with Chicken Rice Hoi An Style
There were more Western diners than local people and no-one was complaining about the lack of furniture or the size of the shop. Everyone tried to save seats for friends. The dished look very beautiful with yellow, shiny rice and chicken torn into small pieces, mixed with the sauce and placed on top. Mint leaves and laksa leaves are used for decoration, it is accompanied by “Trieu Phat” chili sauce, a plate of mixed salad, a small bowl of salt and pepper and finally is a bowl of broth.
You can enjoy rice Chicken Rice Hoi An Style at any time of the year and it will always taste delicious. The dish carries memories from the first time you tried it. .
Followed by V.H
Extracted from articles written especially for the Golden Spoon 2014 called “A journey of searching for traditional rustic dishes”